In July, I was invited by my friend Paula to join her, and 3 of her friends, on a trail riding adventure at the Valles Caldera National Preserve in the Jemez Mountains, northwest of Albuquerque.
We were going to be riding inside the beautiful Valles Caldera Grande, an amazing place that is only opened up to horseback riders 2-3 times per year.
My friend Paula picked me up, and along with her neighbor friend, we headed up into the Jemez Mountains, about a 2 hour drive from my house.
We drove into the caldera and parked inside the Staging Area on the far western side of the caldera, and unloaded our equines and saddled up.
On these special days open to horseback riders, only 50 equines and their riders are permitted into the Preserve. On this day, there were only about 30 horseback riders, which was probably due to people’s worries about the recent forest fires that had occurred on the edge of the caldera, and thinking that it was still smokey there and that fires affected the beautiful views. And I’m sure the fact that monsoon season had just begun, with the threat of afternoon rainstorms, probably played a part in there not being a full-house in the caldera that day. Many people drive 2-4 hours just to get to Valles Caldera Preserve, so of course, they want to get in a full day of riding.
Before we arrived I actually had concerns about having to share the caldera with 50 riders and equines, but I need not have worried.
The Caldera Grande is 13.7 miles wide and has a land area of over 89,000 acres, so there is plenty of space to spread out.
Also, with the many miles of ranch roads, livestock, game and hiking trails, the Valles Caldera Grande has been an excellent location for several Endurance Competitions in the past, as well. In the winter, the caldera is used for x-country skiing and ski orienteering.
As we explored the caldera, I soon came to realize that the distance perspective in the Caldera Grande was very misleading. What looked to be just a couple miles away, was actually 8-13 miles away!
Right away, as soon as we headed out to explore the caldera, I discovered that Apache and I were going to have a few issues with this caldera riding experience.
Apache tends to be a slow-poke anyway, but even more so when she knows, or believes, there is no reason to hurry. And being able to see your fellow equines at all times, just about anywhere they were in that great big bowl, must have given her a false sense of security, because she was the slowest she has ever been since I’ve owned her! I swear, at one point I saw a turtle and a snail pass us by!
(Below, our riding group, from back to front: Michelle riding an Icelandic, Mary Jo riding an Azteca, Sandi riding Paula’s mule, and Paula in the lead)
And although the caldera looks smooth, flat and grassy, it was actually much more varied in terrain than it appears. The grass there was very clumpy and quite difficult for the horses to travel over and between the clumpy grass, and the prairie dog holes, riders have to be careful and ride mostly at a walk or a slow trot. There were also a lot of hills to ride up and down, too. And there were small, narrow, shallow creeks to traverse.
Here is Apache and I. Sandi is in front of me, with Paula in front of her, and Mary Jo and Michelle way off behind us. I had just made Apache trot to catch up, which is the only reason we weren’t the ones who were way in the back.
Also notice the clouds building up in the sky……….
The base of the Caldera Grande is close to 9, 000 ft elevation, so it feels like you can almost touch the clouds.
(Michelle and her Icelandic mare)
(Mary Jo and her Azteca horse)
(Paula and her gelding)
(Paula’s neighbor friend Sandi, riding Paula’s mule)
Apache and I in the knee high grass. Which leads me to explain the other issue we had with our Caldera Grande riding adventure: Grass.
You have to keep in mind that Apache is basically on a dry lot for 10 months of the year. If we do get our yearly monsoon rains, she might get to enjoy 2 months of grass, but for the past 4 years, our state has been in an extreme drought, and even the meager monsoon rains didn't produce any grass growth.
So, suffice it to say, that Apache was overwhelmed with all of the grass available to her on this ride, and it was a challenge for me to keep her face out of it, so we wouldn’t fall back even farther from our group of riding buddies. Let’s just say that my shoulders, neck and back were pretty sore by the next day!
But for the most part, it was a wonderful ride, and the terrain was interesting and the views were spectacular. The Valles Caldera was definitely on my Bucket List and I had to keep pinching myself to be sure I was actually riding there on my horse. (Probably another reason I was sore the next day, too!)
Amazing to think that there were 30 other riders out there riding, along with hundreds of cattle, elk and deer grazing. This caldera is vast!
Michelle and I bringing up the rear.
There are a number of cattle grazing leases for the caldera, and there are fences set up inside the caldera to separate the herds and to help rotate pastures, but even though we rode by several herds of cattle and could see more cattle off in the distance, we didn’t notice a lot of destruction that cattle typically cause with loads of manure and trampled down vegetation. So, I would say that it seems as if the Valles Caldera Preserve is doing a pretty good job in managing the area.
Anytime Apache saw another group of riders in the distance, or cattle, she just wanted to stop and stare. She didn’t want to join them and she wasn’t excited, nor did she call out, but she just wanted to watch them. Perhaps she was also trying to figure out that whole distance perspective thing, too, because they really looked so close, but had to have been about a 1/2 mile away! Thank goodness for camera zoom!
See those mountains in the distance? They are about 10, 500 ft elevation. Our plans when starting out, while looking at a map, were to ride to those mountains, have lunch in a beautiful meadow beside a creek and then ride back.
We didn’t even come close to making it all the way to those mountains. And it wasn’t for lack of trying.
Paula took this photo of us: Sandi, Mary Jo, Me and Michelle.
Sometimes I was able to keep Apache moving forward and even trotting, too. It was nice to not always be so far behind.
(Mary Jo and Michelle bringing up the rear)
But I do know my horse and I know she loves to just stop and look. I wish I could read her mind, because I’d love to know what she’s thinking when she gazes off into the distance. She does this often when we ride in the mountains and she sees an opening in the trees that affords a beautiful vista. She just stops and stares while I take photos and enjoy the views, too.
I suppose you could say it’s true what they say, “Show me your horse, and I’ll tell you who you are”. I really did end up with a horse that is perfect for me.
Of course, the problem with having a horse that enjoys stopping to appreciate nature and all it’s beauty, also means that you get left behind by most of your riding buddies.
(Michelle and Mary Jo way up ahead. About a football field away! And another group of riders even farther off in the distance)
We started to hear thunder and the clouds rolling in from the west became thicker and darker. But Paula and Sandi wanted to see if they could make it to those mountains, so Mary Jo, Michelle and I headed back.
We climbed up to the ranch road that encircles the entire caldera, hoping that would make our journey back a little faster and easier for our equines.
But Apache still decided that slow was better. She wasn’t worried about being so far behind her fellow equines. She could see them just fine off in the distance.
(You can see Michelle and Mary Jo in front of us, and a couple of other riders way up in front of them on the dirt road…and you can also see the road as it travels into the tree line. That’s the road we were going to take all the way back to the Staging Area…..which is actually located all the way to the left and out of this photo! Yeah….we had a long way to go. Hurry up Apache!!)
At one point it started sprinkling, so Michelle and Mary Jo stopped to put on their rain jackets, so Apache and I were able to catch up to them.
(Notice the groups of riders way off in the distance? See how tiny they are. We are about 3/4 mile away!)
Michelle asked if I would take photo of she and her horse in front of these beautiful boulders.
This is a funny photo to me, because in the 6 years that I have owned horses, and the 4 years I’ve owned Apache, and all the many miles we’ve traveled over many trails, this is the first time I have ever had to don my rain slicker! Seriously, we have just been very lucky weather-wise and have never needed it. Plus, for the past 4+ years New Mexico has been in an extreme drought and rain was rare to non-existent for months.
So, I’m pretty happy about this goofy photo. It was raining! And I finally christened my rain slicker!!!
We were still a couple miles away from the Staging Area when we started seeing lightning and hearing the boom and crack of thunder.
Thankfully, the side of the caldera that we were riding, was clear of any lightning, and we only had to deal with some rain sprinkles. When we rode up to the top of a hill, we had a good view of the Staging Area and Cattle Barn, and all the horse trailers. We could also see where the forest fires had burned the trees in the mountains above. So, I zoomed in with my camera and took this photo.
We still had quite a ways to ride!
So we decided to take a short cut and get off the road and ride directly towards the Staging Area…and directly towards the oncoming storm.
You probably can’t tell in this photo that we are at least 300 feet, on top of a hill, from our riding buddies, and that we had to ride down that fairly steep hill to get down to the little valley they were riding in. It’s that crazy distance perspective thing again. I tell you, the Valles Caldera is like a Bermuda Triangle Phenomenon kind of place!
(Notice the roof of the Cattle Barn and the tops of the horse trailers off in the distance)
We thought we would ride directly into the Staging Area through the meadows, but our horses insisted we change our plans when we came upon a twisting, narrow, shallow creek lined in knee high tall grass. The creek was standing in our way of reaching the Staging Area in the most direct route. So we each tried to convince our horses to cross that creek, from the saddle and from the ground, too, but all 3 of our horses refused. I was perplexed because Apache has no trouble with water crossings.
But the thunder and lightning were getting closer and it was starting to rain a little heavier, and we saw a dead rattlesnake in the creek…so we took that as an omen, and turned away from the creek and rode up onto the ranch road instead.
We noticed right away, that we weren’t the only ones whose horses refused the shallow creek and forced their riders to choose the longer route back to the Staging Area.
(Notice the group of riders in the meadow up ahead of us. There are creeks and marshes all along this roadway covered in thick tall grass, so we had to stay on the road, until we got up to that next treeline just past the bend in the road)
Right here is where the fog and rain rolled in and we could watch it as it got closer to us.
(Beautiful little historic cabin in that little canyon up ahead)
We also saw a herd of elk grazing in the trees.
And more fog and low rain clouds.
And we got to see some of the old historic ranch cabins.
The Valles Caldera and some of it’s ranch buildings have been the filming locations for many movies, including:
- 1971 Shoot Out w/Gregory Peck
- 1977 Peter Lundy and the Medicine Hat Stallion w/Leif Garrett
- 1982 The Gambler w/ Kenny Rogers
- 1994 Troublemakers w/ Terence Hill
- 1995 Buffalo Girls w/Anjelica Huston
- 1997 Last Stand at Saber River w/ Tom Selleck
- 2003 The Missing with Tommy Lee Jones
- 2007 Seraphim Falls w/Liam Neeson and Pierce Brosnan
- 2013 The Lone Ranger w/Johnny Depp and Armie Hammer
Just before we reached the Staging Area and Cattle Barn, the sky opened up and poured on us. Apache and the rest of our equines were eager to get out of the rain just as much as we were, and we had to hold them back as they started to jig and trot in place. Yes…even my slow pokey pony!
We hastily trotted our way to the Cattle Barn so we could tie up our horses out of the pouring rain. There was also a nice picnic table in the center of the barn where we all gathered to finally eat our lunches, while listening to the cattle mooing in their pens inside the barn and the sound of the rain falling all around us and on the metal roof.
Paula and Tecumseh, and her friend Sandi made it into the barn before Michelle, Mary Jo and I did, so they weren’t as wet as we were. They had been able to urge their equines to keep a faster pace and to cross that little creek!
My wet pony tied to the Valles Caldera cattle chutes inside the Cattle Barn at the Staging Area.
Apache, “Hey, Mom can we leave now? Those cattle are making too much noise, and they stink. I’d like to dry off and get back home to my own comfy, non-stinky, quiet barn”.
All in all, it was a great ride, and we survived all the challenges and we got home safely. But I’d love to go back when we’re not in the middle of a rainy monsoon season so we can get in a full day of riding…and perhaps the grass will have lost it’s novelty…or at least be brown and not as tasty?
Here is the GPS Map from my Valles Caldera Ride (7.4 miles):
Valles Caldera Trail Ride
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