Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Jemez Mountains Road Trip ~ The Drive Up

 

I love road trips, don’t you? There are so many new and exciting things to see and do, beautiful vistas to enjoy, adventures to experience, and it’s just wonderful to get away from home for a while and be on no particular schedule at all.

On Friday my kidlets and I headed north to the Jemez Mountains in the Santa Fe National Forest for a weekend of camping with my twinlings’ Boy Scout Troop. Ranchman John had to work so he offered to take care of all the critters while we went on our road trip, so we were set to go. It’s only supposed to be a 2 1/2 hour drive, but we had to make a couple stops on the way, so we didn’t leave as early as I’d planned.

Oh well, life is always full of surprises and many of them are good, right?

It has been more than 12 years since I’d driven up to the Jemez so I consulted with Google Maps for Directions, but I knew something was amiss when we took a left turn onto state road 485, and it drove through a little village I didn’t recognize. Also the road became rough rather quickly and was just old asphalt covered in red dirt with potholes and areas where it had been washed out from recent rains. Hmmmm. I kept on because I was still going north and I knew that’s where the campground was.

I thought it was strange that we saw no one else on this road and dusk was fast approaching. I drove onward and soon we entered into a steep sided canyon with a deep drop-off into the Guadalupe River down below. Of course, most of the one way road had very few guard rails either. I was thankful that we weren’t driving through this section at night.

(Borrowed photo of this section taken during the winter)

gilmansnow

But soon we were confronted with tunnels, like something you’d see in Lord of The Rings…narrow, long, rocky tunnels into the darkest Netherworld. Driving through we had to go slow because they twist and turn and you can’t see if any other cars are coming towards you from the other side.

gilman tunnels 

If it had been earlier in the day, I would have gotten out to take photos as there were some pull-outs on both sides of the tunnels. But darkness was falling, so I borrowed some photos from the internet to show you these tunnels, which are called The Gilman Tunnels.

normal_Jemez-Gilman-Tunnels

I had heard of these tunnels and this beautiful, off the beaten path scenic roadway before, but had never had the opportunity to come this way to explore. And now we can’t wait to go back during the day.

By this time, though, I was telling my kidlets, “Ummm, this can’t be the right way. How in the world would folks with RVs be able to drive through those two tunnels? They are too narrow”. Hmmmm.

gilman

Once we were on the other side of the tunnels, that little one lane road road turned into a rough washboard gravel road as it continued to climb.

And a little ways after my previous comment about the narrow tunnels, our headlights shone onto a boulder the size of a large refrigerator laying on it’s side in the one lane gravel road. Uh oh!

Apparently it had fallen from the cliff above us.

I didn’t even think we should try it, as there appeared to be no one else on the road and my cell phone had no bars. I prepared to turn around, just as a truck drove up. I flagged it down and asked the guy if that was the way to Fenton Lake, past that boulder in the road, and he laughed…….

Yes it was, he said, but it was another 12 miles up the gravel road, and another 5 miles on a paved road. But he recommended we still keep going that way because the alternative, turning around and going back, would add twice as much roadway to travel and more driving time.

Like an Angel sent from heaven, he told us to follow him around the refrigerator boulder and he would wait until we passed safely to the other side. It looked like someone had taken a sledge hammer to the one side of the boulder to chip off enough of it so that a vehicle could get past, but barely.

We had to go up and over a sandy, rocky hill to go around it, and a stupid sage bush ended up scratching the paint on the passenger side of my van, but we did manage to get around it safely. Whoohoo!

The guy told us that Fenton Lake Campground was full and he was camping out with friends alongside forest road 376. We were with the Boy Scout Troop though and had reservations, so I knew we could get into the campground…….

We followed him for a while but he was driving a 4-wheel drive truck while I was….not. And the washboard road kept causing us to fish tail anytime we got above 25 mph, and with the steep drop-offs and sparse guard rails, I preferred to go at a slower, safer, steady pace. So, we lost sight of him as he drove off down the gravel road.

Soon, it was pitch black dark and we started noticing many camp fires on either side of the road in the forest. They were comforting and like beacons encouraging us to drive onward.

There were sections of the road that had been partially washed out and we had to stay on our toes to avoid the washed out sections, huge potholes, and crumbling edges of the roadway.

At one point, we drove up over a small hill and almost ran right into a brown and white cow standing in the center of the roadway. My reactions were fast enough to swerve to the side and go around him slowly, but after that little scare, I was even more cautious as we drove into the night.

(Photo taken last year driving up to Angel Fire, NM)

IMG_7707

Soon we noticed that the camp fires were even more frequent, and we finally came upon our first vehicle on the road driving towards us. It was a truck pulling a camper looking for a place to camp for the night, probably after trying to get a place at Fenton Lake first.

Not long after that, the forest road came to an end at a paved road and we turned in the direction the man in the truck had told us and drove another 4-5 miles up that road.

Ironically there were no signs for Fenton Lake, only a large sign that said “Unimproved Road Ahead. Drive at your own Risk”

Nice.

Thankfully, we soon came upon a turn-off with a sign for Fenton Lake and we drove right in. We looked at a campground map but couldn’t find any group site, but soon another boy and a scout leader drove up and asked if we knew where everyone was. Yikes!

Fenton Lake Campground is large and spread out  so we drove around the campground for about 20 minutes, to no avail. By this time it was close to 9 pm, and we couldn’t help but ooh and aah at the moonlight brilliantly shining on the lake as we kept driving past it.

Could we be the only boy scouts who showed up for the Camp Out?

Where was everybody? 

The campground was full. Where would we be sleeping tonight?

(To be continued…………….)

          



18 comments :

Dan and Betty said...

That drive up to the tunnels is a beautiful sight. You did go the hard way to get to Fenton Lake.

Looking forward to the rest of your story/adventure.

Dan

Unknown said...

Hoping to visit New Mexico this spring, those tunnels look like an amazing sight, anxious to hear how you made out.

Unknown said...

Wow what a cool but scary adventure. Up north on the Canadian shield they have large nets to catch boulders. At first I thought you meant someone dropped a fridge off the cliff! LOL! And those darn sagebrushes keep causing you trouble don't they?

Louise said...

Oh my goodness, sounds like you had quite the adventure. Can't wait to hear the rest of it.

Rebecca said...

Oh my godness, I would have just left the car there and walked home after having to go through the tunnels and around the boulder haha! Can't wait to read the rest of your story!

Alison said...

My oh my, you sure do live in an interesting part of the world, my friend!

Jeni said...

Oh my !!!! I sure hope you found the rest of group!

I wish to someday see such beautiful area's of our country. That kinda of "driving" is my kind.. off the beaten path with lots of interesting things to see.

Those tunnels are really cool!

** Hay thanks for your great comments and i could almost feel that huge hug!

~Jeni

Gail said...

When you have a family adventure, you go all out!

Leah Fry said...

I say everyone but you was lost! Gorgeous scenery, and I can't wait to hear the rest of the story.

small farm girl said...

My goodness! What an adventure! Like you though, I'll stick to tamer adventures. lol

clairz said...

Yup, that's just the sort of thing that happens when you drive the back roads of New Mexico. I've been on an adventure like this while running out of gas--we were new to NM and the map said it was a state highway, so we assumed there would be gas stations. Folks here say that experienced New Mexicans take along not one but two cans of gas when venturing into the back country.

I'm assuming from the fact that you have posted that you made it out safely, but I can't wait to read HOW you did it!!!

Crystal said...

Wow that looks like such a cool drive! I would love to go see those tunnels someday. I really got to get to New Mexico one day! Thanks fo rsharing such cool places with us :)

allhorsestuff said...

Liss, you are such a great teller of the adventure!
I lost it...in peals...when you said, "Nice" ...and, yeas...that guy must have been sent to you. The timing, amazing.
AND I FELT YOUR RELIEF...as you started to see cozy fires, along the evening skies.

Boy, can't wait to hear more..what an incredible place...sure hope you all get to stop and take your own photos...on the way home.
I love you're family times....is John with you?
Xo
Kac
PS
Hope
Apache mare is well

Paint Girl said...

I love road trips! I love that I get to travel for my job, but I don't get to do any sightseeing, which is a bummer.
I just have to get to NM someday and do some sightseeing! It is absolutely beautiful and the scenery is gorgeous!

Fantastyk Voyager said...

It's been a long time since I was up that way. We used to camp on that road all the time, along the Rio de las Vacas, at the end near Fenton Lake, before it got too crowded.

Unknown said...

ooooo!

Nuzzling Muzzles said...

Sounds like quite the adventure.

StefRobrts said...

Wow! I wish you'd taken some pictures (thought I know how it is when you're trying to get to camp), it sounds so different than what we have around here. I can't imagine seeing the campfires flickering from a distance, or the crazy giant boulder blocking the road. It sure doesn't sound like anyplace you would take an RV to!